I began my day at 6:15 a.m. as I walked out of the familiar city of Massa. The days are noticeably shorter this year in September than they were in July and August last year as it is dark when I begin the day’s journey.

I climb steeply out of the quiet city and up into the mountains overlooking the Mediterranean.

I spent the morning winding along back roads at the foot of the mountains and break for my first trail coffee of the trip. I don’t sample the brioche as they don’t carry pistachio brioche and this is clearly more cafe than panetteria. Regardless, it’s a nice break in the journey and happens to be located next to a bank and ATM as I need a fist full of Euros for small expenses like cappuccinos and aqua frizzante along the trail.

I break for lunch and wander into a locals only club (for the “common working class” with flat costs that are very inexpensive) the proprietor tells me I’m in the wrong place and we chat for a moment in a combination of English and Italian (his English is better than my Italian). He decides to make an exception to the “member” rule and tells me to keep my mouth shut about the topic of membership. They never seem to make these exceptions for me at the fancy private clubs in Atlanta. Maybe I’ll add this to the reasons I like this place (Italy that is) – easy private club access. Entire meal with pasta, sparkling water and wine was $14 USD.

After lunch, I make my way out of Piatrasanta and not far out of town I take in the Pieve di Giovanni e Santa Felicita church. Originally constructed on this site in 855 A.D., it is the oldest church in this area.

I make my way across the street and along a side road up into the forest as the trail rises quickly at the 20 kilometer mark of the day.

The day concludes with my arrival at Ostelle del Pellegrino of Camaiore and adjoining church. This is my home for the evening. I arrive and meet two Aussie friends, Pete and Alan – 70’s something working on being retired. They’re enjoying their traditional end of hike celebration with a beer and whisky. I join them with my end of hike tradition of aqua frizzante (sparkling water) and a beer (no whisky).