My day began at 5:15 a.m. from the hostel with my roommates not far behind. Ignatio (mi alto amigo de España) and I leap frogged one another all morning walking together occasionally and admiring the beautiful vistas and views across valleys on either side of the trail as we traverse the ridgeline most of the morning. Other than a wrong turn by Ignatio at one point (he disappeared and I assumed he accelerated his pace), the morning hike was uneventful and we covered the 10.4 kilometers into Berceto quickly. When I arrive in Berceto at 8:15 a.m. my day of hiking is done. Just 3 brief hours but almost all of it rewarding with beautiful views.

My other two roommates from last evening (never caught their names, just their stories: an Italian male professor in economics from London and his female companion [friend from university in Rome; not married to each other as the professor’s wife and young son are in London] who is a personal trainer and in the Italian military) arrive a few minutes after I sit down with my macchiato and pistachio brioche. Ignatio shows up 15 minutes later explaining to me [in Spanish] where he took a wrong turn. We all sit together and enjoy conversation in Spanish, Italian and English. Of course, my new professor friend has a handle on all three languages. Yes, Ignatio is a very large man.

Our discussion over caffe include our next stops and accommodations. My friends from Italy plan to stop at a hostel in Passo Della Cisa. I am able to pass along a heads-up to them from my Canadian friend, Mark, that the hostel has no food or drink available (WhatApp is a lifesaver traveling here for communication. It’s the international platform for communication. It, along with translation apps, allow me to communicate with friends and also book hostels, dinner reservations, etc.). My friends are grateful for the information and load up on supplies as they exit Berceto. They are only hiking for 5 days and are looking to make the most of their time. This is their 3rd short term hike of the Via Francigena together. Based upon the conversation regarding distance and accommodations, Ignatio decides to stay in Berceto with me and we work together to find him accommodations for the night. My spot is full.

I questioned my decision to have such a short day of hiking much of the morning while I walked (maybe I should have pushed it today, etc.). Once I arrive in Berceto, my doubts vanish. This is another lovely little village (population 1,982) and the perfect spot to spend the day. The conversation with my new friends further confirms my decision.

History of Beautiful Duomo of Berceto

From Wikipedia:

The church arose alongside a Benedictinemonastery founded in 719 by Liutprand, King of the Lombards. Originally attached to Bishop Moderanno of Renne, in 879, the monastery was assigned to the diocese of Parma, only to close in the following century, and the property being renamed a pieve, or rural parish, dedicated to San Moderanno. The convent was along the routes of pilgrimage to Rome.

The church was rebuilt in the 12th century, and the main portals date from this era. Further reconstructions were guided between 1480-1502, commissioned by Bertrando Maria Rossi. The facade was completed in Romanesque style in 1845.

The sculptural program of the portal documents events in the life and Passion of Christ, but is also peppered with images of animals and humans, symbolizing vices and sins. The secondary portal depicts the Adoration of the Magi (1198) and the figures of Saints Peter and Paul.