Gabe and I departed Ivrea at 6:10 a.m. and made our way out of town. We left the mountains largely behind yesterday, so this morning’s exit was simple and flat. Just before exiting the town, we found an open caffe’ serving the early birds and working class in Ivrea. We stopped for a quick espresso, Italian style (standing at the counter drinking it like a whisky shot of caffeine, often with cigarette). While Gabe ordered inside, I noticed an old friend (relative on a long hike, of course) ambling down the street – Andrea from Day 2. We embraced with a hug like long lost friends and he began looking for Gabe.

We caught-up on our experiences over the last few days apart and learned that Andrea’s ankle was giving him trouble, causing him to shorten his planned hike.

While comparing notes with Andrea on experiences and plans, another pilgrim passes on the other side of the street but Andrea was unable to summon his attention due to noise from a passing bus. The pilgrim continues his brisk pace down the street and out of town. We learn from Andrea that this man is racing to accomplish a speed goal and sometimes hiking as much as 70 kilometers a day. More power to him …

We wrap-up our coffees and head out, leaving Andrea to his breakfast and cappuccino.

The morning’s hike is filled with damp grass, very stagnant lake, forests and fields of corn, beans and other vegetables grown in the northern part of the Piemonte Region of Italy. They also grow mosquitoes and this year is yielding a bumper crop.

As you can see in the photos, Gabe and I get separated a bit early in our hike and I notice Gabe jumping around, stopping and swatting up ahead and feel for him as he’s battling a platoon of mosquitoes that threaten to lift him off the ground and carry him away. About that time, Andrea catches up to us and is somewhat amused by Gabe’s defenselessness in his shorts and short-sleeved shirt and remarks that this area is renowned for its mosquito population. In his kindness, Andrea hustles up to offer Gabe bug spray which Gabe gladly accepts. By the time I reach Gabe and Andrea, Gabe’s arms and legs are covered in bites. The three of us emerge from Italy’s version of the Everglades and continue our walk toward Viverone.

We pass through Burolo, Bollengo, San Piedro, Palazzo Canavese and Piverone before reaching Viverone.

Gabe and I hustle into town in search of cold beer and lunch before the city shuts down at 2:00/2:30 for the afternoon siesta. We strike out at a few spots despite ads on-line that indicate they are scheduled to be open, including one young woman who offered us toast and a beer. We eventually landed at a charming family run spot just before closing where the proprietor and her husband had pitty on us and served us a delicious pasta with ragu and fried fish and green beans along with cold beer. In the background, a small child in a high chair watched American children’s programming. This would be our last lunch together.

Right after this picture is taken (Gabe is seeking assistance with the bus schedule from the restauranteur who has also enlisted bus schedule help from her husband in the kitchen as well), Gabe and I say our goodbyes and part ways as he later catches a bus and then a train to a hotel in Milan. He will catch a late morning flight back to Atlanta tomorrow morning. We exchange texts through the evening as he confirms his arrival at his hotel in Milan and we compare notes on our accommodations and our dinners.