I began today’s journey at 6:30 a.m. leaving the Le Dimore del Seminario for a long day without services.

Knowing this, I take the first opportunity in Calenzano to grab coffee and fruit before the trek through the Tuscan hills. My day started with a beautiful view and the scenery remained remarkably beautiful throughout the day. The most notable thing about the hike today beyond the quintessential vistas was the number of people on the trail from all over the world. I met people from Italy (of course), France, Ireland, Belgium and even a couple from Antecortes (place we take the ferry to our place on Orcas Island).

During my morning break, I was joined by two couples from Belgium. They were very kind to me and insisted (very kindly and gently) that I receive their gift of espresso and “fruit of the forest” (berries) wafer. We engaged in an entire philosophical conversation about the joy of giving only coming to fruition if there is a delighted, grateful recipient. I was both delighted and grateful for their gifts of nourishment and conversation. The later the greater of the gifts.

The last quarter of the trip the heat was intense and the ascent to my destination seemed to stretch beneath my feet. Over the course of this final stretch, I began leap-frogging a couple of French women in their 70s (speculating based upon our close encounters; their English was as challenged as my French). They were handling the hills and heat with amazing courage and physical exertion. They were an inspiring pair. Without any comprehensible words, we felt our collective pain and determination and willed ourselves to our destination.

Upon arriving at my destination, I located the first bar on the road into town and found a seat at the table with fellow pilgrims from Ireland (Gordon) and France (Jean Louis). We were soon joined by a fellow traveler (Leonardo) from Verona, Italy, home to one of my fellow companions from last year’s journey, Andrea. This Veronan jokingly swore he knew Andrea as we began to discuss his first experience on the Via Francigena.

One of the most exciting developments as I arrived in town was a laundromat sighting. It’s a rare find in these village towns, so I jumped at the chance to wash my clothes for a fresh start to San Gimignano tomorrow.

I concluded the day with a trip to the bustling piazza centrale and a delicious meal.