The day began where it ended yesterday – back at the only bar/cafe/restaurant in town. We (the six of us – Andrea, Roberta, Mark, Gord and Francesco) gathered at the cafe just before it opened at 6:30 a.m. to caffeinate and fuel up with brioche before our 26 kilometer trek. After a short hike (4 km/roughly one hour), we arrive at the Po River just outside Corte Sant’Andrea where we catch the “ferry” across the river with Danilo.

Our host, Danilo, is a very animated character dispensing a constant stream of comedic relief and Via Francigena history as he guides us downstream on his boat. After landing on the other side of the river he provides a more in-depth history (in Italian; he voluntold a young man in our ferry crew to interpret for the American and the Canadians, though I’m not sure my friend Mark needs a whole lot of interpretation as he seems to grasp most of what is said) of this portion of the Via Francigena at a monument commemorating Sigeric’s landing at this same spot in 990 A.D. We eventually make our way to his home where he stamps pilgrim passports commemorating the journey and has each of us sign a very large log book of pilgrims making this portion of the journey with Danilo. Based upon the size of the log book and newspaper clippings on the wall of Danilo’s home, he’s been shepherding people on the Via Francigena across the Po River for a long time (he is now 75 years old).

After leaving Danilo’s house, our crew makes its ways to Calendasco for our late morning coffees and breaks and each of us sets out from their on our own pace to our final destination.

One of the really enjoyable aspects of long pilgrimage walks is the opportunity for individual time of reflection and taking in one’s surroundings and the opportunity to engage in conversations with others one-on-one, in pairs and also with the group. There is an understanding among pilgrims that the journey is a shared, solo endeavor. Everyone walking has their reason for their individual journey but it is a gift to get to share the experience with others along the way. Over the last few days, I’ve enjoyed the opportunity to get to know the stories of each of these interesting and dynamic people and a hear a little bit of each of their stories. By the grace of God, our stories have now become inseparably connected through our shared experience. It’s unlikely I’ll see these folks again beyond this trail adventure, but we’re now forever linked together by this trail and our shared experience on it.

We all arrive in Piacenza at different times. Entering a large city (population 100,413) like this can be discouraging. You begin to see the city from 3-4 kilometers away, exhausted, and set your sights on the skyline. Only to realize as you enter the edge of the city, you may still have 45 minutes to an hour to arrive at the city center where this section of the trail terminates and the hostel or hotel is most often located. Amid the exhaustion, it can be quite a discouraging realization.

Andrea and I have been corresponding via WhatsApp regarding our location and timing of entering the city. He is ahead of me and has located a restaurant at which we can enjoy our now ritualistic end of hike beer, aqua frizzante (sparkling water) and snack. I set my Google maps to his location and I’m now on a mission … 35 long, hot minutes left straight into town. My friend and cold beverages await!

Buon Compleanno! & Farewells

Later in the evening, we gather at a bar (same one Andrea and I met at earlier in the late afternoon) for pre-dinner drinks and appetizers to celebrate Andrea’s 45th birthday and begin to say our goodbyes.

After today, Andrea will hike three more days before grabbing a train in Fidenza for a 3 hour ride back home to his home in Verona, get his hair cut, celebrate his birthday with his mom (she’s phoned him pretty frequently on the trail and worries when he hikes alone), spend a day by the pool and then return to work as an accountant at a bank.

After today, Roberta will grab a train south to experience a day or two of hiking in Tuscany before grabbing a train to Rome to visit her family then take her remaining holiday with a friend in Sicily.

Mark and Gord will continue to make their way to Lucca (their final destination) but will be a day ahead of me as I take a rest day tomorrow. Mark will continue to walk. Gord has decided to hop a train and jump ahead a couple of stops to get a little down time while waiting for Mark. I’m hopeful I’ll reconnect with these two neighbors in the week ahead.

Francesco will continue to hike but will be at least a day ahead of me. Maybe our paths will cross again.

So, this night we celebrate our friend on his birthday and say bittersweet goodbyes.